An Ode to Olive:
An exploration of olive oil in South Africa

Olive trees are among the oldest known cultivated trees in the world, dating back 6,000 years, originally native to Iran, Syria, and Palestine. Olive cultivation spread throughout the Mediterranean region and eventually to other parts of the world, including South Africa, as a result of trade and colonisation. It was Dutch colonial administrator, Jan van Riebeeck, who introduced olives to the Cape of South Africa. In an entry in his diary in 1661, he recorded that  “2 olive trees were growing successfully on the farm Boschheuvel”.

However, the commercial olive oil industry in South Africa owes much of its development to Italian pioneers. One such pioneer was Ferdinand Costa, who purchased a farm in the Paarl Valley in the late 1800s and specialised in olive cultivation for commercial purposes. He named his farm Nervi after his birthplace, a seaside resort near Genoa in Italy. Costa's contributions to the industry earned him the title "The Father of the Olive Industry in South Africa."

Another significant Italian pioneer was Giulio Bertrand, who imported 2,000 olive trees from Italy to his farm, Morgenster, in Somerset West almost 70 years later. Bertrand introduced the Italian tradition of combining wine and olive oil into his farming enterprise, recognising the potential for producing high-quality products from both.  Known as “coltura promiscua” or polyculture, the tradition of planting mixed crops in the same area, such as olive trees and grapes, is due to the fact that they thrive in the same climates and conditions, and further that they have complementary harvest seasons. Grapes flower briefly in Spring, typically from September through November, and are ready for harvest from January through March, depending on the variety of grape. Around the same time as the late grape harvest, typically from March through May, olive groves mature and the olive harvest continues until the end of winter in June and sometimes July in some areas in South Africa. For importing 90% of all cultivars currently in production in South Africa, and for his overall contribution to the local Olive Oil industry, SA Olive awarded Bertrand the Lifetime Achievement Award in August 2012.

Giulio Bertrand's enduring legacy can be seen in Morgenster Wine and Olive Estate, which currently boasts 50 hectares of olive groves with over 30,000 trees covering 17 different Italian varieties. Their award-winning, highly-regarded Morgenster extra virgin olive oil is a secret blend of at least 14 Italian varieties, and has been recognised by the Flos Olei Guide as one of the world's best extra virgin olive oils for its exceptional quality and consistency. The Flos Olei Guide is an annual guidebook that provides information and ratings on the world's best extra virgin olive oils and is considered to be one of the most authoritative sources on high-quality olive oils. In fact, their extra virgin olive oil blend was named the best extra virgin olive oil in South Africa in the 2010-2013 editions of the guide, and is considered among the best in the world.

The olive oil industry has grown significantly since the 1990s, as global demand has increased and awareness of the health benefits of olives and olive oil has risen. This growth is reflected in the number of olive farms in South Africa, expanding from just a handful to over 200 today, as well as in the increasing size of land dedicated to olive oil production, which has grown by 70% since 2012 to reach an estimated 2,400 hectares in 2020.

Despite this growth, however, South Africa still produces relatively low volumes of olive oil, which barely meet one-third of local demand. The rest of the demand is met through imports, mainly from Spain (70%) and Italy (19%). South Africa is still however able to export some of its olive oil to neighbouring countries such as Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Zambia, Mozambique, and Swaziland.

The country’s olive oil production is mainly concentrated in the Western Cape region, which is the heart of South Africa’s olive oil industry and accounts for 95% of the land used for olive cultivation. The Eastern Cape only has 2% of the land for cultivation, while the Free State and North West regions each have only 1% (based on SA Olive 2020 report). This is due to the Mediterranean-like climate of the Western Cape, with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers.

Most of the production today occurs in the southwest coastal region near Cape Town, where groves are primarily situated in the green valleys and low hills to the south and west which comprise the mountain ranges that form the Cape Fold Belt. Some olive oil production also takes place in the interior of the Cape Fold Belt, on the arid central plateau known as the Karoo. While the climate is quite suitable for olive farming, many producers face the challenges of maintaining water infrastructure.

The term cultivar is derived from "cultivated variety" and refers to the various types of olives grown in specific geographical areas. South Africa's fertile soil and favourable climate in some regions provide a home to many different olive cultivars such as Mission, Frantoio, Kalamata, Manzanilla, Leccino, and Coratino to name just a few. Manzanilla and Kalamata are better suited for table olives as they have a low oil yield.

It is evident that when compared to Spain, the biggest olive oil producer and importer in the world, South Africa's olive oil industry does not compete in terms of scale and scope in the international market. In 2020, Spain produced over 1.7 million tonnes (approximately 1.8 billion litres) of olive oil, while South Africa produced only 3,000 tonnes (approximately 3.3 million litres). Spain also has a wider variety of olives due to its entirely Mediterranean climate.

However, South Africa's olive oil industry has carved out a niche in the international market by focusing on quality and producing unique blends of olives, resulting in award-winning oils that affirm its excellence, rivalling some of the best olive oils in the world.

Food for thought 

Ninety-five percent of all South African olive oil is classified as extra virgin olive oil, which is widely regarded as the highest quality and most flavorful oil available. The term "extra" refers to the oil's acidity level, which must not exceed 0.8% in chemical testing, and peroxide levels must be lower than 20 meq/kg, indicating freshness. "Virgin" refers to oil extracted purely from the olive, processed at temperatures below 30°C (cold-pressed) without any additives or defects, and stored in tanks that are free of oxygen and light.

How to buy and store 

When purchasing olive oil, it is important to look for extra virgin olive oil that is pure, unrefined, unadulterated, and cold-pressed for maximum flavour and health benefits. Checking the origin of the oil can also indicate its freshness, and purchasing locally can increase the likelihood that one is purchasing a high quality oil.

Unlike wine, extra virgin olive oil does not improve with age, and it is recommended to consume it within two years of the harvest date for the best health and flavour benefits. Look for the CTC SEAL, the official seal of the SA Olive Association, which indicates that the producer has committed to complying with strict quality standards and that the oil has been approved. It is also important to store olive oil in a cool, dark place, away from light and air, as they can cause the oil to spoil.

Tasting

Now for the best part! Extra virgin olive oil comes in three styles which are generally indicated on the label: delicate, intense, and medium. Delicate has a subtle, fresh, and fruity taste and aroma, and is best used as a substitute for butter, drizzled on bread, salads, and roasted vegetables, and in baking and mayonnaise. Medium has a good balance of fruity, peppery aftertaste, and bitterness. The balanced flavour profile of medium olive oil makes it best for marinating and grilling meats like chicken, steak, or fish. It also works well for salad dressings, pastries, and pastas. Intense has a very fruity and pungent flavour with a strong bite of bitterness, and is best for cooking lamb, beef, and pork casseroles or roasts.

To taste the olive oil, start by pouring it into a glass and sealing the top with your hand before giving it a good swirl. Uncover the glass and take a moment to smell the oil, just as you would with wine. Then, take a sip and allow the flavours to spread throughout your mouth by taking in some air before swallowing. Take note of the different flavours you sense, such as the peppery or bitter taste. A high-quality olive oil should leave your mouth feeling clean and refreshed, without any oily or greasy residue. Any unpleasant aromas or tastes, no matter how slight, are considered defects, such as a muddy, mouldy, winey, or rancid flavour.

If you're interested in olive oil tasting, you may want to visit any of the following farms: Lamara, Tokara, Babylonstoren and Willow Creek, all of which produce world-class, award-winning olive oils. Each of these farms offer oil tasting experiences where you can sample and learn about different types of olive oil, their production process, and the best ways to pair them with food. You may also have the opportunity to purchase some of their high-quality oils to take home with you. Be sure to contact the farms beforehand to confirm availability and to book your tasting experience.